Gazette du Bon Ton: Reconsidering the Materiality of the Fashion Publication
Open AccessThe creation of national identity through the printed publication was historically important in developing French economic and cultural dominance. Luxury periodical publications such as Gazette du Bon Ton followed in the footsteps of historic predecessors in promoting French fashion and standards of taste to elite audiences at home and abroad, and editors such as Lucien Vogel, who positioned Gazette du Bon Ton alongside the exquisitely produced, influential fine art, decorative art, and design guides of the time, became powerful voices reporting on fashion and appropriate social etiquette during a time of profound social change. The separation and cataloguing of individual pochoir from Gazette du Bon Ton has, over time, shifted the publication from rare book libraries to print, photography, and drawing collections and the classification of Gazette du Bon Ton pochoir as ephemera. This shift has limited our understanding of the complete publication. Prior research of Gazette du Bon Ton has focused primarily on the visual merits of fashion pochoir. This thesis attempts to redress that imbalance by analyzing the material components of Gazette du Bon Ton and reconsidering the vision of powerful editors such as Lucien Vogel in directing social narratives reflective of their time.
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